Zekate House Gjirokastra

This incredible three-storey house dates from 1811 and has twin towers and a double-arched facade. It's fascinating to nose around the almost unchanged interiors of an Ottoman-era home, especially the upstairs galleries, which have carved wooden ceilings, stained-glass windows and detailed wall frescoes. The owners live next door and although the opening hours are fairly standard through the summer months, in the winter it's simply a case of turning up and asking if they could show you around. To get here, follow the signs past the Hotel Kalemi and keep zigzagging up the hill.