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The affable Jean Michel Besinoa delights in showing off his 70,000-sq-metre plantation featuring cocoa, pepper, ginger, two types of turmeric and various fruits including litchis, guavas, corossol and the intriguing zevi (spondias dulcis). Visit any time of year, but come with a guide as Jean Michel only speaks French and Malagasy. It's a pleasant 1½-hour walk soaking up his enthusiasm. After your tour here, the tourism bureau can arrange a three-hour pirogue ride down the Bemarivo from Volamaitso to the Soavoanio Coconut Plantation.