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Yachts line the harbour (as their uniformed crews diligently scrub them) and visitors stroll the quays at the picturesque old port. In front of the sable-coloured townhouses, the Bailli de Suffren statue of a 17th-century naval hero, cast from a 19th-century cannon, peers out to sea. Duck beneath the archway, next to the tourist office, to uncover St-Tropez’ daily morning fish market, on place aux Herbes.