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Sungai Ulur (called Snake River for its winding path) swims through mangrove forests to Sungai Ular Buddhist Temple, the oldest Chinese temple in the Riau Islands. The temple is decorated with gory murals depicting the trials and tortures of hell. Charter a sampan (a flat-bottomed wooden boat; 150,000Rp for five people) from Tanjung Pinang harbour.