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The 199 steps of Church Stairs lead steeply up from the end of Church St, passing the spooky graveyard of St Mary's Church, a favourite haunt of Goth courting couples. The atmospheric interior of the church is full of skewed and tilting galleries and box pews; the oldest parts date to the 12th century. So many Dracula fans come here looking for the vampire's grave that the church has had to put a sign on the door informing the public that, alas, it's not there…because he's not real.