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A bit of a local’s secret, Plage du PK9 is – you guessed it – 9km west of Rotoava (go past the airport and follow the dirt track towards the northern pass; at the PK9 marker, take the path to the left). It’s a thin, laid-back stretch of white coral sand backed by palms and lapped by sparkling turquoise waters. It’s equally good for sunning and swimming and there’s excellent snorkelling not far offshore. Bring plenty of water. Beware of falling coconuts.