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A steep hike uphill from the waterfront on Bastion and Fitzwilliam Sts delivers you to a strollable heritage 'hood of independent stores, galleries and eateries in brightly painted old buildings. Highlights include McLeans Specialty Foods, A Wee Cupcakery and Taphouse Restaurant, a large pub that has taken over the town's old train station. Look out for the heritage plaques on buildings in this area.