Museo de la Memoria Córdoba

A chilling testament to the excesses of Argentina’s military dictatorship, this museum occupies a space formerly used as a clandestine center for detention and torture. It was operated by the dreaded Department of Intelligence (D2), a special division dedicated to the kidnapping and torture of suspected political agitators and the ‘reassignment’ of their children to less politically suspect families. The space itself is stark and unembellished, and the walls are covered with enlarged photographs of people who are still ‘missing’ after 30 years. There’s not much joy here, but the museum stands as a vital reminder of an era that human-rights groups hope will never be forgotten.