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To reach Forcalquier's citadel and its little octagonal chapel, it’s a 20-minute walk uphill via shady backstreets and winding steps. At the top there’s a viewing platform offering panoramic views. On the way back down, keep an eye out for some of the town’s impressive wooden doorways, dating from the days when Forcalquier was the pre-Revolutionary seat of power for the Comtes de Provence.