Koski Mehmed Pasha Mosque Mostar

Entered from a gated courtyard, this 1618 mosque (substantially rebuilt after the war) has a dome painted with botanical motifs and punctuated by coloured-glass windows. You can climb the claustrophobic minaret for sweeping town views. Access to the charming courtyard doesn't require a ticket unless you want to get close to the parapet for the river view.