Ihwa Mural Village Northern Seoul

High on the slopes of Naksan is one of the city's old daldongnae (literally ‘moon villages’) where refugees lived in shacks after the Korean War. Sixty years later it has morphed into a tourism hot spot thanks to a collection of quirky sculptures and imaginative murals on walls along the village's steep stairways and alleys. The euphemistic name daldongnae alludes to the fact that residents had a great view of the moon from their hovels high on the hillside. It's a fair old slog up the steps to reach the top, but you'll be rewarded with wonderful views of the city (and epic sunsets) from a row of lookout cafes.