Hiljainen Kansa Central Finland

An unearthly field confronts travellers 30km north of Suomussalmi, on Rd 5 to Kuusamo. Hiljainen Kansa is a thousand scarecrow-like figures with heads of peat and straw standing like mute witnesses to the triumphs and failures of humanity. A creation of local choreographer Reijo Kela, they are given a biannual change of look by locals donating clothes: you are welcome to swap shirts with one. A summer cafe alongside serves rustic coffee and pancakes on a wood stove.