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This magnificently carved temple is immediately identifiable by its showy dragon-decorated roofs and a shroud of smoke emanating from furnaces burning prayer books stuffed in by devotees. It’s dedicated to Guan Yu, a Three Kingdoms general who was deified as the god of war. Inside the temple are statues of the god and wall panels that detail his life. Busy merchants gather outside. By night the temple is lit up in wonderfully gawdy fairy lights.