Gemur Gompa Lahaul & Spiti

The masterpiece within this outwardly unremarkable 16th-century temple hides in a chamber at the back of the main idols: walk around to the right and behind you'll find the large gilded statue of Dorje-Chang with red-bodied Dorje Pangmo pointing meaningfully at his crossed wrists. The gompa is a 15-minute walk above Gemur, 4km south of Jispa. Start from the driveway of the Gemur Khar B&B and follow the steps. The courtyard is the scene of chaam mask dances in June/July.