Fábrica de Tabacos Francisco Donatien Pinar Del Río Province

If you're tracking the full story of tobacco from plant to cigar then this is the inevitable end-point – the factory where they skillfully roll them by hand. Smaller than Havana's Partagás factory, it's possible to get a more intimate insight here, though the foibles are the same – robotic guides, rushed tours and the nagging notion that it's all a bit voyeuristic. There's an excellent cigar shop opposite.