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The tiny Fisherman's Life Museum, 35km west of Tangier, paints a convincing picture of the tough lives of the people – particularly the women – who lived along the Eastern Shore at the turn of the 20th century. The museum is dotted with family memorabilia, and costumed guides offer tea, tales and hospitality. The simple wooden house belonged to Ervine Myers, his wife, Ethelda, and their 13 daughters; in summer Ervine spent weeks at his fish shack on Roger Barren Island, and he worked at local lumber camps in winter, leaving his wife and daughters to look after the family home. It's surprisingly moving in its own understated way.