Estonian Museum of Contemporary Art Kalamaja & Telliskivi

Despite its highfalutin name, this grungy old warehouse space is more slapped together than slick. It started as a squat collective in 2006, and exhibitions still tend to be edgier and more oddball than anything you'll find at the more official galleries. For that reason, there are more surprises, but perhaps fewer moments of real artistic success here than at many safer galleries.