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On a modest hilltop across the River Tawi from the main city, Bahu Fort's sturdy walls were reinforced in the early 19th century. Today they enclose a series of shrines set around a much revered Kali temple. You can see the exterior fortifications from the lawns of Bagh-i-Bahu (Bahu Park), where a modest subterranean aquarium is entered through the gaping mouth of a giant carp. Matadors drop passengers in the car park from where you'll need to wind through a minor labyrinth of hawkers' stalls; take the right alley for the temple/fort and the left for the park/aquarium. You'll need to remove your shoes and deposit cellphones and cameras to go inside the fortress.